Discerning some claims that British cooking has displaced the celebrated cuisine Francais as "French-bashing" and "Anglo-Saxon arrogance" the French foreign ministry and celebrity chef Alain Ducasse have launched a counter offensive.
"Gout de France. Good France" (I would have used "gout de France. Good taste", says Malc) is a campaign to show to that French cuisine is still the best. Based on Escoffier's "Diner d'Epicure" in 1912, embassies throughout the world will be inviting local dignitaries to dine on food prepared by leading chefs on the same basic idea.
We can't help thinking that a 1912 idea says something about French cuisine. It's traditions are good, but fresh thinking is what is driving international kitchens to the top. We re-watched the "100 Foot Journey" the other night and in amongst all the mush is the theme that even the French will welcome some culinary innovation - though more likely in the steel and glass splendour of the Pompidou centre than the homely institutions of St Antonin.
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